Growing Sorrel – 12 Facts You Should Know

How do you harvest sorrel leaves?

The emerging leaves, stems and mature old leaves should be avoided for consumption as these have the highest concentrations of oxalic acid and are the most bitter. Instead, harvest the green, healthy intermediate leaves by simply tearing them off the plant at the base of the leaf.

Is sorrel cut-and-come-again?

Yes. It is usually best to harvest a few leaves rather than the whole lot so that you target the best leaves for eating, then the plant will easily re-shoot new ones thanks to its reserves of starches stored in the roots. In some climates, even when ALL of the leaves are removed, the plant will continue to re-shoot in spring and autumn as long as the roots are well established.

How long until you can harvest sorrel?

It usually takes between 6 – 8 weeks after planting the seed before you can start harvesting the leaves. Don’t be too greedy at this stage – just take one or two leaves until you are sure the roots have become well established.

You can extend the harvest season by always removing any flower stalks. This will keep the production concentrated on the leaves instead.

What are the main sorrel varieties?

Most varieties of R. acetosa are more acidic than French sorrel (R. scutatus), while the two North American species are not commercially cultivated. Interestingly, the varieties with variegated leaves tend to have higher oxalic acid concentrations than the green-leaved varieties.

Some varieties of common sorrel are described below:  

• De Belleville sorrel has been selected for its longer season, so it doesn’t go straight to seed like wild varieties. The base of the leaf stem is red and they tend to be less acidic than common sorrel.
• Blonde de Lyon sorrel has yellow-green flowers.
• Green mountain sorrel is very acidic but is a prolific grower with long leaves and is usually the last variety to bolt to seed.
• Blistered Leaf sorrel is the least acidic and flowers later than common sorrel, making the leaves tastier for longer. Seed from this variety tend to revert back to the De Belleville traits.
• Fervent’s large sorrel is very hardy and is an early and prolific producer. Leaves are large and yellow-ish-green with red stems.
• Scarcelle blonde sorrel is similar to De Belleville but with pale yellow-ish stems. The seed tends to revert back to its original De Bellville traits.
• Profusion sorrel is a naturally occurring mutation that never goes to seed so must be dug up and divided to multiply. It has a very low acidity and practically no pests.

Is sorrel invasive?

It is considered invasive in Alaska as well as parts of China, France, Norway, Czechia, Chile, Argentina, Falkland Islands and Chad, however, few studies measure its impacts other than on crops.

Other species of growing sorrel
, such as Rumex acetosella and Rumex crispus, are considered more invasive due to their rhizome roots which can produce extensive swathes of sorrel, especially in acidic soils.

Wild and common sorrel have separate male and female plants and are not self-pollinated which would let you think that it would be difficult to become invasive, but it has been shown that a number of different Rumex species can cross-pollinate.

Some cultivated varieties of sorrel can self-pollinate. It is also wind-pollinated and produces a large number of viable seeds, which lends itself to being invasive, but the seeds of R. acetosa are considered relatively short-lived compared to other Rumex species, usually only lasting a year or two in the soil.

How do you get rid of garden sorrel?

I use two different methods to remove plants that have deep taproots.

1) After a heavy rain, dig them up, making sure to remove the whole tap root, or:

2) dig up as much as possible and then smother the remainder with a layer of cardboard followed by a very thick layer of mulch.

So, try growing sorrel some sorrel next time you are looking for a zesty addition to the garden that is low maintenance and hardy.